Dong Hoi to Hue

     Our last post ended with Paradise Cave.  The cave was only recently discovered (2005) and has been open to the public since 2011.  After Paradise, we had lunch and boarded boats to see Phong Nha Cave.  This cave is flooded with water, actually a river (the longest undergrown river in the world--Roger thinks more than 30 miles), so we entered the wide mouth by boat.  An oarsmen paddled us quietly upstream amid the beautiful formations.  We are here in the low season, yet there were many boats accompanying us.  You would be fighting crowds in high season.  We were accompanied on this tour by several young travellers, many of whom had been on the road for 6-12 months.  Mostly Aussies.  They know how to see the world.

     After the tour, we had another shrimp pancake meal and a coffee at our favorite Tree Hugger Cafe and then returned to our room for a good night's sleep.  The next day we woke early for breakfast, a quick transfer to the train station and the 4 hour (daytime) ride to Hue, the old imperial capitol of Vietnam.  The train was crowded with happy Vietnamese chattering and eating (everyone's favorite pasttime).  I met a young Vietnamese woman who was studying to be a doctor.  She studies and lives during the week in Hue and returns to her family's home in Dong Hoi on the weekends.  She made several suggestions about local sites and local foods in Hue.

     After checking into the hotel, we walked to the Citidel, seat of the imperial dynasty until 1945.  It is about 200 acres near the Perfume River.   Two moats surround it.  The emperor lived in the center, the Forbidden City.  His wives, mother and servants lived on the periphery.  The area was extensively bombed in WWII and the Vietnam War (here called the American War), so few buildings remain.  But the ones that do remain are extraordinary, with tile mosaic decorations, intricate wood carvings and such.  Again, I need pictures to show you!   The government and local people are making an effort to restore the buildings to their former glory--a huge undertaking.  We spent the whole afternoon there, finally returning to our hotel for a refreshing shower.  Later we had dinner at the Hue Serene Restaurant, exceptionally good.  Oh, I forgot to mention that we have finally found warm weather.  It is in the 70s here, still cloudy.  Humid.  I love it!  Hue is busier than Dong Hoi, but less so than Hanoi.  We have been told by many people that the people of Hanoi are focused on making money and being efficient.  As you move south, the people are friendlier, more relaxed and less focused on making money.  We have been impressed by the friendliness everywhere.