More Adventures in Salento

After a day relaxing in town and tuning up our Spanish, we spent the last two days on adventures.

Adventure 1: We had learned from Trip Advisor about a nearby private Andean cloud forest nature reserve, so we arranged for an English-speaking tour (our Spanish is improving, but we get a lot more out of a tour in English).  We hiked 1-1/2 miles out of town on a dirt road and met Carlos at the entrance to the reserve.  Nine other visitors joined us.

Carlos is absolutely passionate about his land--we estimate about 35 acres-- of Andean cloud forest.  About half of his steeply sloped land has not been altered.  It has the original vegetation.  Other than researchers, no one is allowed to enter.  The remainder of the land had been a coffee plantation.  Carlos and Nicolas are allowing this part of their property to return to its natural state, using their knowledge of forest succession.  They built a structure for guests where the original farmhouse was, as well as a few other geodesic structures on stilts in natural clearings (so as not to remove trees and other vegetation).  They capture spring and rain water for drinking, bathing and cooking, and purify waste water on site, returning it to the land.

We walked the property on trails for about 3 hours. We were impressed with Carlos' knowledge of the cloud forest, how it works and how everything is connected.  He senses a change in climate during the 10 years he has owned the property.  The property is part of a system of private reserves now encouraged by the Colombian government.  It would be a great idea to incorporate in the States.  This was the highlight of our trip to Salento.

Adventure 2:  Yesterday, we hopped a Willy's jeep (the local form of transportation) along with 10 other people and a driver for the 20 minute ride into the valley of cocora.  Admittedly 2 of the people
were standing on the bumper and holding onto the roof frame.  The valley is the number 1
recommendation in the area on Trip Advisor.  The valley of cocora is famous for the wax palm, the
tallest palms in the world...up to 200 feet...and the intact cloud forest. We arrived before 10 a.m. with the intention of returning to Salento before the daily 2 p.m. rainstorm. With the help of two cute 20-somethings, found the start of the trail.  (Colombians are not the best at signage.)  We walked up and up and up for the next 1-1/2 hours.  Let me emphasize that there were no level or downhill stretches the entire time...only up.  Finally, we reached the "mountain house" which had a beautiful view of the cloud forest.  Then we started down a steep path into the cloud forest and along the river.  We passed a few of the people we had met on the coffee plantation and the nature reserve tours.  We crossed the river several times on rickety suspension bridges.

After leaving the forest, we passed through pastureland on a trail shared with horses.  This trail was muddy, full of rocks, and difficult to walk while avoiding the horses.  We made it back to the Willy's parking lot and caught a ride back to Salento with 11 others.  The young people find it adventurous to stand on the back bumper and hang onto the frame.  We have seen Willy's packed with 16, so we had a light load.  Willy's jeeps are such an integral part of rural Colombian culture that a "yipao"  (or jeep full) is a legitimate measure of agricultural goods.  As the Willy's entered Salento, the heavens opened up and a torrential downpour began.  We stood under cover for 15 minutes or so, grateful that we were not still on the trail.  When the rain subsided a bit, we walked back to our hotel.  Later that night, we walked to a restaurant for yet another delicious trout dinner.  They do serve other things here.  We are simply addicted to the trout dishes.