Thursday, December 29, 2016

A Few More Days in Villa de Leyva

Since rain storms seem to occur regularly at 2:00 on the dot and last until 4:00, we thought we were safe taking an hour walk at 11:00.  When we told our waitress at breakfast of our plans, she commented that it wasn't a good day to be outside.  But intrepid as we are, we set out to explore the countryside.  An hour latter, we were about a mile and a half up the dirt road and a torrential downpour occurred.  How could nature have changed her schedule on a whim like that?  Despite raincoats and umbrellas (we were not entirely clueless), we got very soaked.  Drying our shoes, socks, pants and coats has been a challenge with the high humidity here.  Oh well, we did have fun on the walk.

In contrast, yesterday was a fantastic day.  After an early breakfast, we started to walk into town, but were quickly offered a ride by a passing motorist.  He was a lawyer and we enjoyed chatting in Spanglish as he motored into town.  He dropped us near a bicycle rental place.  We rented bikes and headed off to explore the hinterland.

Our first stop: Casa  Terracotta, a whimsical free form house that Kathy wanted to buy.


Our 2nd stop: an archeological dig of an ancient observatory of the muisca people.


 

Next stop: El Fosil.  Most of western Colombia  was covered by oceans in ancient times.  This fossilized pliosaurus was found near here.  Note the teeth.  It was an aquatic, meat-eating reptile about 40 feet long.  After the museum, we visited the paleontology institute nearby where research is ongoing.  We had a private tour with an English speaking guide.  

We then biked UPHILL to town (Kathy walked her bike up the steep parts),  returned the bikes, and had a lovely late lunch before walking back to our Casona. We shared salmon with a cilantro and orange sauce  and a vegetable shrimp salad. Outstanding! 







































































Tuesday, December 27, 2016

Stories of the Colombian People

A couple of days have passed since our last post.  We spent one day studying Spanish and reading.  Roger walked to a nearby market for "dinner"-- wine, cheese, bread and the ubiquitous Oreos.  He did well considering the limited choices.

The next day, we met a variety of interesting people, both at the Casona and in town.  We met a Colombian family at breakfast at the Casona--a man, his wife and teenage daughter.  The man and the daughter spoke a little English so we discussed places to see in Colombia.  They were interesting because he lives east of Los Angeles, but his wife and daughter live in Bogota.  The daughter attended school in the U.S. For 9 months to learn English.  She plans to go to a University in Bogota or Canada - the father did not want her to study in the U.S. because of the drugs and lack of focus at U.S. campuses.  He had returned to Colombia for the holidays and the family was vacationing in Villa.  We met up with this family again in town and continued our conversation with them.

We then walked to a little vineyard about 1/2 mile out of town to sample wine.  As we entered the grounds, an older man waved us into the tasting area.  We were encouraged to sit with him while his Colombian wife got the wine.  We discovered that the man was German, but had come to Colombia 32 years ago to help it "develop."  For the next 45 minutes he talked non-stop about how ignorant and inefficient the Colombian people are.  Part of the problem was this gentleman's age.  He had trouble forming sentences and when we tried to steer the conversation to something else, he returned immediately to the same subject.  But his wife seemed pleased for us to be there listening to him.  The winery, itself, seemed young--maybe 4 years.  They grew Cabernet, a white grape, and a local variatal called Isabela.  The red wine had an intense, sweet bouquet, but a dry taste.  Roger like it.  Kathy, less so.  When we pried ourselves away, we hiked back into town for lunch.

We ate at Entrepanes, a sandwich restaurant recommended by Trip Advisor.  From the moment we walked in, we were treated like family by the owner, Eduardo.  There was only one other couple in the restaurant. We ordered our lunch and he began to tell us his story.  He was in Internet Marketing in Bogota, but got tired of the city life.  He had relatives in Villa and had come there often as he grew up, so it was logical for him to go there as an escape from the city.  He continued the internet marketing business, but wanted something more.  So he opened a sandwich shop.  His idea was to have two tables, a small menu, and to serve excellent, fresh sandwiches based on the slow food model.  It was an instant success.  Soon his two tables were not enough...long lines of people waited to be seated.  His restaurant has now expanded to 10 tables downstairs and another few upstairs, but he insists on maintaining the highest quality of food and service.  He makes his own mayonnaise, sauces and sources fresh produce from the area.  His brother, Andres, and his girlfriend help him with the business.  He has dropped his Internet marketing business--the restaurant is more fun.  This man will go far.  He has found a perfect niche here in Villa...despite the many other good restaurants.  In fact, he has been asked to open a shop in Bogota, but has resisted doing so.  He said "I can't maintain the quality I want if I cannot oversee the operation directly." He admits that he is a control freak. We had a delicious salad, beef sandwich with melted Gruyere with caramelized onions, and mushrooms, fresh mango juice, tiramisu (made locally by an Italian friend), and coffee.

As you can probably tell by now, our favorite parts of travel are meeting interesting people and eating local foods.















Sunday, December 25, 2016

Christmas Eve in Colombia

Christmas Eve.  The day started with our first breakfast at Casona San Nicolas, which is included with our room.  Breakfast consisted of fresh orange juice, a bowl of hot soup (meat broth, potatoes, cilantro, onions, beef...called caldo), bread, jam, scrambled eggs and coffee with milk.  The hot broth was especially welcome since the morning was cold (Roger says in the 50s and Kathy says in the 40s...whichever it was, it felt cold because our place has no heat).

After breakfast, we hopped a ride to town with our host, Consuelo. She gave us a tour, introducing us to every shop owner, some of whom were family.  She seemed to know everyone.  We stopped at a little kiosk run by her nephew for a hot fruit-flavored drink.  It was basically hot water with a mint leaf, sweetened strawberries and uchua (a tiny citrusy fruit).  It was delicious.  I'll have to try it at home.  We then explored town, including a Saturday regional market, on our own for the rest of the day until it started to rain.  Once again we retreated to a restaurant, sipping beers and listening to live guitar music until the rain stopped (about 2 hours! We sip slowly.).  We then caught a taxi back to the Casona.

We were invited to join the owner's family and a few other guests for a special Christmas Eve dinner at 9:30. Usually Kathy is in bed at that time, but she reluctantly agreed to go...especially since Roger had not fed her since breakfast. It was another chilly night, so we dressed in 15 layers (okay, I exaggerate) and walked up to the dining hall which was all decorated for Christmas.  We had Santa hats and bells at our seats, and we were asked to sing Jingle Bells in English.  Lots of laughter, good food and holiday spirit.  Dinner was shrimp salad, fresh fruit, cold potato salad with peas, and a small piece of beef cooked to perfection.  Red wine and wonderful desserts too.  It was so nice to be included in their Christmas celebration (we were only English speakers).  Made us feel a part of the family.

Photos of our lodging outside of Villa

Casona San Nicolas

Entry to Guest Area

Roger at breakfast

Day 3 in transit

Bogota is a big city.  In fact, only NYC and Mexico City are larger to the north. Today we hoped to go by bus from Bogota to the small town of Villa de Leyva, about 100 miles away.  First we asked the hotel to get a taxi for us to go to the bus terminal.  This trip took about half an hour in heavy traffic.  At the bus terminal, (no one spoke English) we fumbled with our Spanish enough to find the bus company (among dozens) that left next for Villa, bought two tickets and then waited an hour before we boarded the bus.  It took another hour to get out of Bogota and into the countryside.  We bought a "direct" ticket.  That simply meant that we did not change buses to our destination.  But the bus stopped frequently to pick up or let off passengers, stretching the 100 mile trip into 4-1/2 hours.

The destination was worth the slow ride.  Villa is a quaint little colonial town (maybe 6000 souls) with cobblestone streets, white-washed buildings and red tile roofs.  It serves as a get-away community for Bogotanos.  It has tons of restaurants serving all kinds of food, from Thai and French to vegetarian.  The food in Colombia has been outstanding so far.  No hot, peppery dishes.  Lots of potato, corn and soups.

As we arrived, the clouds gathered and rain started.  We ducked into a restaurant with live guitar music and ordered...you guessed it, our second bowl of ajiaco accompanied by Colombian beer.  We eventually got a taxi to take us to our lodging about 3 miles out of town.  We were pleasantly surprised by Casona San Nicolas, a large home/ranch converted to guest rooms.

Saturday, December 24, 2016

Still Learning to Blog

The drinks cost about $9 dollars each.  This might be normal in the States--we don't know because we rarely go to bars and never order hard liquor.  But it felt like a lot here.  We won't be doing that again.  The local beer--Club Colombia--is just $1.25  That will do nicely.

We will put pictures on the blog when we obtain a gadget to connect the camera to the iPad.

We're Here in Colombia!

Our flights to Bogota were seamless.  We flew out of Las Vegas, had a short layover in Panama City, then on to Bogota.  COPA Airlines was very efficient, comfortable and pleasant.  There was a long line at customs, but after 9 hours en route, we were happy to stand awhile.  We were met by a taxi driver in a suit (arranged by the hotel) and driven directly to the boutique Hotel Santa Lucia.  The roads were busy due to peak hour traffic, but he got us there safely and quickly...in sharp contrast to our Hanoi experiences.

Roger and I favor small hotels with local flavor and the Hotel Santa Lucia was perfect.  It was an old, well-maintained, colonial building with 3 levels of rooms opening onto a central patio area.  Only 15 rooms.  Our room was spotless, hardwood floors, crown molding around the ceiling and a comfortable bed.  Breakfast was included: fruit juice, fruit, eggs and coffee.  All delicious.  No one spoke any English.  It is a steep re-learning curve trying to pull back our Spanish after not using it for 3 years.  But we're getting by.  By the end of the trip, we will probably be able to understand the answers to our many questions.

Since we had to be at the Vegas airport at 3 am,  we sacked out immediately upon arrival and slept well.  After breakfast the next morning, we went for a walk and discovered a free guided walking tour of the colonial center (recommended by Trip Advisor).  The walk was wonderful.  Jeff, a city native and anthropologist with a great sense of humor...who also spoke English, walked with a group of about 15 people for three hours.  He introduced us Colombian history and culture, told us about important buildings, provided us with a tasting of chicha, a traditional fermented corn drink upon which he had written his dissertation, at a local restaurant.  He invited us to try local street food, obleas, two crisp thin pancakes smeared with cream, caramel, raspberries, cheese, coconut...whatever you choose.  Delicious!  He took us through the Botero (the most famous Colombian artist who paints fat figures) art museum and interpreted the meaning of several.  We went to several plazas with memorials to Bolivar and Santander...and saw men selling emeralds on the street.  At the end of the tour, we had lunch with Jeff and several others from the group.  We had a local favorite, ajiaco, a soup with chicken broth, potatoes, a piece of corn cob, and chicken served with heavy cream, capers, rice and avocado on the side to be added as you please.  It was heavenly.  I'll try to make when we return home.

With lunch (which served as dinner too) under our belts, we headed for the Gold Museum.  It holds the largest collection pre-Hispanic gold in the world.  The museum was divided into three parts: metallurgy (how it evolved in the world), the different techniques used by Colombians peoples, and lastly the symbolism of metals to the people.  It was fascinating.  Kathy saw some beautiful baskets at the museum gift shop and is now on a hunt for where they are being made in Colombia.  Hmmm!  We returned to the hotel.  Roger suggested a drink at the bar. The staff turned the lights on and took instructions on how to make the concoctions.  We ordered a bourbon and 7 and a bourbon and water.  We did not realize that we would pay dearly for this moment of

Sunday, December 4, 2016

Off to Colombia this Winter (2016)


Hi All, Here we go again...off for the winter. Initially, we had hoped to go to the Galapagos (Ecuador) and Machu Pichu (Peru). But prices were high for that combination and heavy rainfall was the norm during the weeks we wanted to travel. Instead, we decided on 6 weeks in Colombia, lured by the 75 degree average temperatures in Medellin and hot humid weather along the Caribbean coast and the lack of tourists. We booked our round trip flight Las Vegas to Bogota (through Panama) and our first 2-1/2 weeks of lodging. Since our travels fall over the Christmas holidays we thought booking ahead was wise. After January 7, however, we are free to roam wherever adventure and excitement lead us.

Right now, we are figuring out how to get everything we will need in our two carry-on bags...always a challenge. Roger's suitcase is always filled with "community" items such as the mosquito net that fits over our bed and a rather large medicine kit. He sacrifices a lot in terms of space for clothes. My suitcase on the other hand is filled with clothes...mine. This trip has been particularly difficult because we must plan for 3 different climates: Bogota at 8,600 feet will be cold (40s and 50s) and rainy. Cartagena on the coast will be humid and in the 80s. Everything else will be in between.


We'll let you know when we arrive. Have a merry, merry, merry Christmas dear friends.